You are right. This is a cabbage. We did, in fact, eat the carrots before the photo shoot.
This year we did well by our fall crops. Clearly, the most important first step was that we, actually, planted our fall crops! Fall planting time can easily sneak by us. We started the seedlings in a cooler protected environment, covered the plants with row cover to deter the voracious insects of late summer, and covered them with row cover or plastic when freezing weather came in. We were rewarded with spinach and kale as well as delicious crunchy carrots, cabbage, collards, and broccoli made sweeter by the cold! We were fooled a couple times by warming trends after the first frosts. Thinking that the bugs would not be active after the freeze, row covers came off and, don’t you know it, bugs (caterpillars) came in. Next year, I’d like to plant more confidently….meaning, planting more and having a solid plan for storing surplus. We are grateful for the extra abundance from the garden to supplement our stored winter squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and dried beans. Yum!
StellaLou home apiary during winter preparation in autumn
We changed our management strategies significantly after a sad 2019/20 winter, having had over 60% losses. With these changes: our apiary expanded three fold without buying a single bee, we harvested a respectable amount of honey, and our winter clusters are strong and healthy this winter. In addition, we met our goal to manage varroa mite loads without harsh chemicals. We use organic acids along with timely hive management strategies.
With all of that happy news; we look to have at least 20 five-frame nucleus colonies (nucs) to sell in early to mid May 2021. These nucs will have local overwintered queens (mutts) that were hatched and mated in July 2020. The nucs are $150 each. I am starting a waiting list. If you are interested, Contact Us and let us know how many you are interested in purchasing. Once your name is on the list, I can give you updates and instructions. Deposits will not be due until spring approaches. Of course, please, let us know if you have any questions. Looking forward to hearing from you!
I leave honey on the bee hives for the winter but I like to supplement with blocks of candy as we get into January-February. I make batches of candy throughout the winter and take opportunities to peek into the top of the hives. I get a sense of what is going on in there and can feed more candy if needed. We have plenty of winter days in the 40’s and it is no problem to peek into the top.
I use 35-40 pounds of sugar at a time. It is challenging because of the weight and heat. You might want to make less or get help.
I use a turkey fryer because of its large size (around 32 quart size). Also, I don’t mind beating up the pot with my paint mixer. I heat the candy inside the house and bring it outside to cool and stir. Others like to heat outside using a propane burner. Doing the process outside helps with the mess. It is a good idea to use gloves and long sleeves to protect yourself from the hot syrup.
I follow the proportions of water, vinegar, and sugar given by the Doug Brown in his video. They work.
Bring to a boil, stirring frequently so it doesn’t burn on the bottom. Often, you will see recipes telling you to “stir constantly.” That’s not really necessary but you, definitely, don’t want to get involved, too deeply, in another task. I recommend staying in the kitchen.
While I’m waiting for the mixture to boil, I line reusable foil trays with freezer paper. I find freezer paper works best for removing the candy from the pans after cooling. Often, I can reuse the paper if it is removed carefully. If you use another paper such as parchment, it may stick a little. That is not a big problem, the bees will remove it. Some people pour the candy directly onto “candy boards” that they will fit onto their hives.
The sugar water will, eventually, come to a boil. At this point, you don’t have to stir because the boiling keeps things moving. Start taking temperature readings with a candy thermometer.
Bring the temperature up to 248 degrees Fahrenheit and maintain that temperature for 15-20 minutes. After that, I bring the pot outdoors to cool.
I measure out pollen substitute if that is to be added. Generally, I’ll add about 1/2 pound of pollen substitute for 20 pounds of sugar. I will double that as the bees start to brood up for spring. Some people feel that adding pollen too early might cause problems with bees brooding up before it’s time.
Once the candy is cooled to 180 degrees F. I add the pollen substitute and a few of drops of lemongrass oil.
I set up a paint mixer and drill. The candy gets, vigorously, stirred for 3-4 minutes so that the mixture is full of bubbles.
Quickly, pour the mixture into your lined pans or containers before it starts to harden. Have a scraper at hand to get the last of it out of the pot. It can be difficult to manage with one person. Two people make this process easier. Admittedly, I tend to work the syrup hotter than 180 degrees F so it remains quite pourable when I put it into the pans.
Once it firms up sufficiently, score the candy into the size blocks you want to use.
Once completely cooled, break the blocks up and put them into your hives. I get a hard block rather than soft fondant with my process. I place them directly on the frames where the cluster is. I use a shim between the top box and the cover to make room for the blocks of candy and feeding bees. Several smaller blocks of candy rather than just one large block provides more surface area for the bees. I just have to lift the inner cover and place the candy blocks in as needed.